If you’ve been dealing with discoloration, you’re likely familiar with the big-name brightening ingredients out there: hydroquinone, licorice extract, vitamin C. But mark my words, there’s an unsung spot-fading hero waiting in the wings, poised to become the latest and greatest skincare superstar. Known as alpha arbutin, this ingredient effectively targets hyperpigmentation without any of the potential problematic side effects of its brightening counterparts have.
Ahead, dermatologists weigh in on everything you need to know about arbutin, including how to use it to achieve the glowing, even complexion of your dreams.
What is Alpha Arbutin?
Arbutin is a naturally-occurring compound found in many plant sources such as bearberry, mulberry, and pomegranate, explains Ife Rodney, M.D., a dermatologist and founding director of Eternal Dermatology in Fulton, Maryland. “Arbutin” and “alpha arbutin” are often used synonymously or interchangeably; alpha-arbutin is simply the chemically synthesized version most often found in skin-care products.
There’s also another variant, beta arbutin, but don’t bother seeking this one out; some studies have shown that arbutin is over ten times more effective than beta arbutin, notes Y. Claire Chang, M.D., a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology in New York City.
How Does Alpha Arbutin Work in the Skin?
Alpha arbutin is a choice brightening ingredient because it’s a derivative of hydroquinone, one of the most effective skin-lightening and spot-fading actives out there. While it’s a champ at gradually fading dark spots, it has a safety profile that’s a little, well, questionable.
Here’s the sitch: hydroquinone can be toxic to living cells and has the potential for side effects such as ochornosis (a bluish-black discoloration of the skin tissue) as well as irritation, according to Dr. Chang. It’s why you can only use the ingredient for a few months at a time, and also why it’s been banned entirely in the E.U. and Japan.
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