We all know that retinol is the gold standard anti-aging ingredient. It’s the show-off we can’t get enough of—it smooths lines and texture, prevent zits, and fades pigmentation. Essentially, it tricks your skin into acting young again. But, like so many show-offs, it’s not for everyone, and some people can find it irritating. Retinol can cause sensitivity, redness, and peeling, and for those with sensitive skin, these side effects can sometimes be unbearable. And with retinol, it only works if you can use it consistently. But there are some ways to include this star ingredient in even the most sensitive skin care regimen.
This Ingredient Makes Retinol Bearable
More and more formulators are factoring niacinamide (a form of vitamin B3) into their retinol products, like Dr. Sam Bunting, who added it to her Flawless Nightly Serum ($48), that contains both retinol and niacinamide.
“Niacinamide has two helpful actions. It boosts ceramide production, an essential component of the epidermis’ bricks and mortar structure, which makes skin more robust and tolerant of irritants,” she explains. “It also has an anti-inflammatory action, which helps minimize the impact of starting a retinoid, which can trigger the release of inflammatory mediators in the skin.”
If your skin is strong and healthy, this means that while the retinol-induced peeling (a good sign it’s working) will still happen, it won’t come with the downside of irritation.
More Retinol Hacks for Sensitive Skin
In addition to using a retinol product that contains niacinamide, Dr. Bunting recommends the following tips.
Prep your skin: While you can buffer your retinol application with a layer of niacinamide-rich moisturizer, if your skin is seriously sensitive, you should spend some time before even reaching for the retinol to prep your complexion. “The use of both ceramides and niacinamide topically can help prep skin for retinoid use,” notes Dr. Bunting. “The other things to consider are stripping out all irritants to create space for the retinoid—so avoid foaming cleansers, skip acid toners, and minimize exfoliant use.” Read more…
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