Doctors around the globe rely on the regenerative power of stem cells to heal burns and injuries, but what can they do in skin-care products? We find out.
LIQUID GOLD
Augustinus Bader, founder of the eponymous skin-care line, is one of the many experts fascinated by the beauty benefits stem cells have to offer. “Human stem cells [not to be confused with plant stem cells; more on that later] have the unique ability to divide, renew and develop into specific types of cells such as muscle, hair and skin, and they play a critical role in the body’s ability to heal itself,” says professor Bader. “These extraordinary cells can be translated to skin care, as they help to produce healthier, more youthful-looking skin.”
A common assumption is that actual human stem cells are formulated in the creams and serums we’re slathering on, when in fact, “skin-care products often only contain the liquid the stem cells are cultured in at the lab, referred to as ‘human stem cell conditioned media,’” says cosmetic chemist Stephen Alain Ko. “Think of it like beer: You could describe beer as yeast cell conditioned media—the yeast grows in the water and grain mixture, culturing and conditioning it, but is then removed to make beer.” In this magic stem cell liquid is a mixture of growth factors, potent proteins called cytokines, enzymes and other molecules that “produce biological signals to carry out the mission of the stem cell by amplifying the skin cells’ ability to talk to each other,” explains Knoxville, TN plastic surgeon David B. Reath, MD.
X FACTOR
The most valuable proteins released by human stem cells are growth factors, which when applied to the skin, bind to its cells to stimulate wound healing and tissue remodeling. “Growth factors work in a ‘lock and key’ manner, with each individual growth factor (key) having a specific receptor (lock) that it attaches to on the cell surface,” says Gail Naughton, PhD, a regenerative medicine researcher. “Since the ‘90s, clinical studies have shown that topically applied growth factors can help reverse signs of aging in the skin by significantly reducing fine lines, wrinkles and sagging, as well as supporting an evening of pigmentation, increasing elasticity, and improving skin tone and texture.” Read more
